The fixtures are on the plot, and we now need to give the electricians a couple more pieces of information: Color and Accessories. Each system has consistent color choices, and if we're using conventional fixtures, as we are in this case, most fixtures will likely have a gel included. For each fixture, we'll place the company and color code near the lens of the fixture. Manufacturer codes are typically:
- R= Rosco (I have occasionally seen X for Roscolux)
- G= GAM (beware- some GAM gels are being phased out, so be sure you're still able to get the color you want, or be ready to make a substitution)
- L= Lee
- A= Apollo
Now that we have all of the fixtures on the plot, we can finish off the details of the light plot. There are a few graphic necessities that need to exist on every light plot:
- Border and Title Block- see USITT Recommendations, or the figure to the right for the information to include
- Symbol Key- This is a guide that identifies all of the symbols on the plot. We might 'know' that a leko symbol with a single slash is a 26° Source 4, but it is good practice to include the information for anyone who is reading the plot. In some cases you might want to include fixtures that are in the inventory, but not used in the design. In our example, we have not used any 19° fixtures, but we might put them in the symbol key anyway if the theatre owns some. If the theatre has a fixed inventory of fixtures, I like to include the number of used fixtures vs the number of available fixtures- example: Source 4 26° - 12/20 suggests that we have 20 fixtures of this type in the inventory and are using 12 in the design.
- Legend: The legend is a single fixture view with all of the different values and symbols labeled. This way, there is no confusion whether a number is (for example) a control channel or an address.
- For a Proscenium Theatre: Start at the plaster line and number the positions towards the back of the stage or the back of the house. 1st Electric is the closest electric batten to the plaster line, and 1st Catwalk/Beam/FOH/etc. is the closest front of house position.
- For a Grid, the conventions are much more localized. Check with the venue to see how they typically name the positions. I have most often seen the parallel pipes in one direction (example: East/West) to be numbered (Pipe 1, Pipe 2, etc) while the pipes on the other axis (North/South) are labeled with letters (Pipe A, Pipe B). If you're inventing your own convention because the venue does not have a standard method, be careful with the letters I (which looks like a one) and O (which looks like a zero). I will sometimes skip Pipe I (jumping from H to J). I have even seen a pipe labeled as Pipe EYE.
- Unit Numbers: The physical location of every fixture in the plot can be identified by a combination of the Hanging Position and the Unit Number. Once all of the fixtures are on the plot, we can number each instrument on the position, starting Stage Left. After the units are numbered, we can very easily identify a fixture as "Pipe C/Unit 2", and quickly find where that fixture is in the physical space.
- Dimensions: Anywhere that you have a long continuous hanging position, it is important to measure and dimension the fixtures on the pipe. Always start at the center of the pipe, and measure towards offstage (i.e. don't measure from the end of the pipe). If you are using a CAD program, you may find that the measurements are 'too precise'- typically we don't need to place fixtures within 1/8 of an inch. I usually set the precision of my dimensions to 'no fractions' so that I always get 'full inch' markings. (Don't forget to change it back when creating scenery drawings!). On a grid , it's usually adequate to dimension from the closest pipe, and depending on the necessary precision of the design, you may trust the electricians to 'eyeball' the fixtures inside the various squares of the grid, especially if the spacing is 4' or less.
- If you have a hanging position that is full or almost full, you might include a note that reads "Fixture Spacing is 1-6" except where noted". Then you don't have to dimension any of the fixtures that meet the typical spacing.
This page is still under construction. Stay Tuned!